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Training Principles
Article and Photo by Ryan Ojerio "Failure teaches you what to work on and how to do it. Without failure it is harder to learn" An effective training schedule should begin with an understanding of one's weaknesses and strengths. The components of climbing can be broken down into three basic categories: • Physical - Grip strength, flexibility, balance etc.. By breaking down the climbing experience into its component parts you can begin to focus on specific weaknesses and address those in your training. Keep in mind, however, that all the components of climbing interact and depend on one another. In other words, successfully executing a climbing sequence requires a synergy of body, mind and technique. |
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Imagine a ball thrown in the air, as it travels upward it slows eventually stopping momentarily at the top of its arc before beginning to fall downwards. That brief instant of time where the ball is suspended motionless is the 'deadpoint'. The key to successful dynos is to coordinate your legs, arms, hips and fingers to accurately propel your hand to the target hold so that it reaches it precisely at the deadpoint. Deadpointing the hold gives you the best chance of successfully latching it. If you aim too high then you'll be trying to grasp it as you are falling down and if you aim too low then obviously you'll miss it. Practice your timing and coordination on short boulder problems being sure to include a variety of grips and movements (i.e. up, sideways, short, long etc.).
To identify your weaknesses analyze your failures and look for patterns. Begin by climbing routes at your limit and when you fall ask yourself: "Why did I fall?". Was it a physical failure such as the inability to lock off and move to the next hand hold? Did you have a mental failure and give up before your strength failed? Or was it a technique mistake that prevented you from finding the right body position to keep weight off of your arms? It may help to have your fellow climbers critique you for they may be able to observe your climbing more objectively. A video camera is an excellent tool for pin pointing errors in your climbing.
Push your limits on a variety of routes or boulder problems. Investigate your endurance limit by doing laps on a route well below your red-point limit. Test your mental abilities by trying to on-sight a new route or problem. Focus on power by doing short boulder problems at the very limit of your ability. Check out your flexibility on routes that force your body in to awkward positions.
Once you've identified some of your weaknesses, don't forget to remind yourself of your strengths. Maybe poor upper body strength is a weakness, but you've got great footwork and balance. Work out with the weights and on big juggy roofs, but then treat yourself to some slab routes to keep it fun.
Set specific goals that are measurable to gauge your progress. Steps to an effective training regime:
1. Identify strengths and weaknesses.
2. Set goals including both performance and progressive goals.
3. Work specific exercises to achieve your goals.
4. Measure progress to keep motivated.
5. Avoid over-training, injury and mental burnout.
6. Keep it fun!
Check out the Resources Page for more specific information on training.
Vocabulary
Power: Simultaneous muscle contraction to produce a short burst of strength.
Endurance: Ability to execute moves at or below your aerobic threshold over a period of time.
Stamina: Ability to execute moves beyond your aerobic threshold, recover and repeat.
On-Sight: Lead climb from top to bottom without falling and without previous knowledge of the route.
Red-Point: Lead climb from bottom to top without falling after rehearsing the moves.
Flash: On-sight with beta
Beta: Advice, verbal or written about the techniques or holds on a route.